2015 Riesling KALKOFEN Reserve, Gritsch - Mauritiushof

"The citrus colored 2015 Kalkofen Riesling Reserve did not ferment to full dryness and thus is not allowed be marketed as Smaragd, which is a category reserved for dry wines of the members of the Vinea Wachau. So it is a makeshift Reserve that was bottled medium-dry and with 13% alcohol. Born in Viessling in the coolish Spitzer Graben (rift), the wine opens with a pure, fresh and lemon-scented bouquet with leafy, stony and just ripe fruit aromas instead of the often exuberant fruit of the 2015 vintage. (I really had to assure myself this is a 2015, not a 2016!) Ripe, lush and concentrated with mango and passion fruit flavors on the smooth and perfectly round palate, this is a well-structured Riesling with good grip and aging potential and a slightly bitter finish. It is a bit more German in style due to its cool, fine, mineral character and the lingering salty finish. However, it has the body, richness and fleshy/charming fruit of a Wachauer. 13% alcohol. Tasted July 2017." (Stephan Reinhardt in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 232, Aug. 2017)

Vinaria 07/2016 "Die besten Rieslinge Österreichs": "Sehr subtiler Duftreigen, der an hellen Tabak, Grüntee und Physalis erinnert, herb, animierend und anmutig zugleich, verlockend; enorme Dichte, pfeffrig wie engmaschig, kühl und zupackend, zahlreiche Facetten und hoher Finessefaktor, quasi „endloser“ Abgang."