2023 Dame blanche, Terre des Dames

"This is such a salt-and-pepper wine! To begin with it tastes of pears and custard apples – as smooth as bone china. And then it begins to rumple up and ruche in the mouth, prickling with energy and darting into corners and crannies with tiny, crystalline flashes.Acidity or minerality, I find myself wondering, as the creaminess creases into crunch. It tastes like those Lebanese salted lemons you get in a jar, like samphire in olive oil, like helichrysum and fenugreek. It's a labyrinth. And then, when you get to the end and think it's finished, your mouth explodes with salt and pepper. All I can think is that I would love to try this with super-crispy salt-and-pepper squid tempura. It's a very pure, naked and beautiful expression of Grenache Blanc." (Tamlyn Currin in www.jancisrobinson.com)